Georgia Hunting Online Articles

Reading White-tailed Deer Signs

By T.R. Michels

White-tailed deer leave several different signs as evidence of where they have been. Both bucks and does leave behind trails, tracks droppings and beds. Bucks also leave behind rubs and scrapes as they prepare for the breeding season or "rut" during the fall. Knowing how to read these signs can help you to know when and where to find white-tailed deer throughout the year.

Trails

Whitetail deer use trails to get the from one "high use" area to another, often from daytime bedding areas to food sources and back again. Deer prefer to travel through the areas of least resistance, so they expend the least amount of energy. This means they often travel on old roads, on dry rather than wet ground, in light rather than deep snow, on hard packed snow rather than soft snow, and at an angle up and down hills rather than straight up and down. But, this preference by deer to move through the easiest areas of travel is overridden by the deer's need for security. Security to a deer is being in a place where it cannot see, smell or hear a predator or humans and human activity, which means the deer often move at night.

Trails used at night, when the deer feel secure under the cover of darkness, are often located in open fields, on hilltops and in meadows. These are areas the deer wouldn't use during the day because they can be seen. Trails deer use during the day are usually located in woods, brush, swamps and fields with tall vegetation, ravines, gullies or low lying routes, where the deer aren't easily seen. Traveling in low routes has other advantages. Winds are not as strong in low-lying areas as they are in higher areas, which makes it easier for the deer to hear.

You can tell how often trails are used by the amount of vegetation or snow in the trail, and the number of deer tracks there are on the trail. The less vegetation there is, and the more tracksthere are, the more the trail is used. You can check trails after it has rained or snowed to find out how many tracks there are, and to see if the trail has been recently used. Kick dirt, leaves or snow over the old tracks, and then check the trail later for new tracks to see if deer are still using the trail, whether they are using it during the day or nigh, and what time of the day they are using it. I also use a Trail Timer to see how many deer use the trail, and what time of day they use it. If you want to find out whether or not bucks or does are using the trail, you can use a trail monitor with a camera, like the PhotoHunter.

Tracks

Tracks on a trail can tell you how often (and sometimes how many) deer use the trail, but may not tell you how important the trail is. Traditional trails, that are used year after year, may not be used during certain times of the year. Heavily used trails leading to ripening agricultural crops may only be used in the fall and winter. Less frequently used trails may be used only at certain times of the year, certain times of the day, or used as escape routes. Trails may also be used by only one doe group, or one buck. Very few tracks on a trail, in thick cover, that parallels a more heavily used trail is probably used by a buck. Look for other buck signs (tracks with drag marks, clumped droppings) to tell you that a buck is using the trail. If you find rubs and scrapes near the trail, you have found a buck rub route.

Deer tracks can also help you determine the sex of the animal and its size. When you look at tracks check the shape and size of the tracks, the travel pattern, and how the tracks are placed in relation to each other. Like some humans, some big deer have big hooves and some have small hooves. Usually older, bigger deer have bigger hooves than other deer in the area. This means that males often have the biggest hooves. One study showed that the width of the back of a mature buck's front hooves (when they are not spread apart) is wider than 2.25 inches. But, size is not enough to say that the tracks were left by a buck.

In deep snow any deer may make drag marks. But if you see long marks with the tracks, where the deer dragged its hooves in the dirt or light snow, the tracks were probably made by a buck. Mature bucks walk stiff legged, and swing their hooves out to the side, which causes them to drag their hooves. Because the added weight of the swollen neck and rack of a buck are in front of the hooves, they exert more pressure than the actual weight of the front of the deer. This causes four different effects on the front hooves; 1. they sink deep into the ground, 2. the toes spread apart, 3. the toes point outward, 4. the hooves drag.

There are several other factors to consider when you are looking at tracks: 1. Because bucks make scrapes, especially dominant bucks, they round off the tips of their front hooves. Hoof prints that appear rounded on the tips are usually made by a scraping buck, which often means a breeding buck. This doesn't mean it is a trophy buck; a small racked buck may be the dominant buck in the area. 2. Bucks generally travel in a straight, purposeful line. 3. Bucks often step directly in or short of the prints of the front hoof with the hind hoof. 4. Because does have a wider pelvis for fawning, their hind hooves often land outside and ahead of the front tracks.

Droppings

When they are combined with other sign, deer droppings, or scat, can help you identify the areas deer use most frequently, like bedding areas, food sources , and the trails that lead to and from them. You may be able to determine size and sometimes the sex of the deer by the size and shape of the droppings. You may also be able to tell how recently the area was used. The most noticeable clue about droppings is their freshness, size and consistency. Shiny or moist droppings are fresher than dull, dry ones. Shiny droppings often indicate recent use of the area, usually within the last twelve hours. If the droppings are still warm, they were probably left within the last fifteen minutes. Droppings of hard pellets usually means the deer were eating dry foods; twigs, dry grass, dry leaves and grain. Soft droppings in clumps usually mean the deer were eating moist food; green grass, leaves and agricultural crops.

The size of the droppings may tell you the size of the animal. For whitetails in the northern States, droppings less than 1/2 inch long are usually those of does and fawns; droppings larger than 3/4 of an inch are those of a buck. Bucks also leave clumps of large droppings in cylindrical shapes; the larger the diameter of the clump, the larger the deer. These clumps can often be found in or near scrapes, along rubs routes, and in buck bedding areas. To find out how long the pellets are I use my little finger. I know that the last joint of my finger is about an inch long, my fingernail is 1/2 inch. The entire length of my little finger is three inches, and I use it to determine the size of tracks. If you compare the size of the droppings, tracks and beds to your finger, hand and arm, you have a better idea of the size of the animals in the area.

Beds

Deer beds look like large ovals where the dirt, grass, leaves or snow have been pressed down. The size and location of the bed can tell you the beds were used by bucks, does or fawns. The beds of northern whitetail bucks are usually longer than 45 inches. Very large bucks may have beds up to 50 inches. Doe beds are about 40 inches, fawn beds 36 inches or less.

Deer often use the same general areas to bed down in on a semi-regular basis. Bedding areas are often located on benches on the downwind side of hills, so the deer can smell approaching danger. Daytime bedding sites are generally in heavy cover; nighttime bedding sites may be in the open. Because does have their fawns with them, they require larger bedding areas than single bucks. Does often use the same general bedding area, but different sites. Numerous beds of different sizes and ages indicate frequent use by does and fawns. Splattered urine near the back of the bed indicates a doe bedding site. Bucks often choose the densest or most remote areas, and use the same general sites. Single large beds in heavy cover indicate solitary bucks. A urine stream near the middle of the bed indicates a buck. Beds with nearby clumped droppings or large pellets, and rubs, indicate a buck bedding site.

The use of bedding sites varies by the time of year, and the time of day. When deer choose a bedding site they are concerned about security first, and then comfort. In warm weather, daytime beds may be in open cover with shade on high ground, often on north facing slopes where cooling breezes blow. They may also be in low-lying areas that remain cool. During cold weather daytime beds may be found on south facing slopes, where the animals take advantage of heat from the sun when it is out. On windy days in cold weather, daytime beds may be in dense cover, low-lying areas, or on the downwind side of hills and slopes, where the deer can get out of the cold wind.

Nighttime bedding sites are not used as regularly as daytime bedding sites, because the deer are less concerned about security, and more concerned about food and comfort. Deer often lay down near nighttime food sources. In warm weather nighttime beds are often found in open areas on hills, where breezes allow the deer to remain cool and smell approaching danger. In cold weather night beds are often found in cover on the downwind side of hills, where the wind isn't so strong.

Rubs

Bucks begin to rub their antlers on trees in the fall as they prepare for the rut. Rubbing may help remove the velvet from a buck's antlers, and strengthen its neck for any sparring matches and fights it may have during the rut. The rub of a whitetail buck is both a visual and scent signal, which tells other deer there is a dominant buck in the areas, and allows them to tell which buck made the rub. A rub is made when a buck rubs or thrashes trees and brush with it's antlers and forehead for about fifteen seconds, breaking smaller trees and brush or removing the bark from the tree, while leaving scent from the buck's forehead on the rub. The buck may also lick or chew the rub after it has rubbed the tree with its antlers, leaving saliva and possibly scent from the glands on the inside its nose on the rub.

Rub Routes

A series of rubs along a lightly used buck trail is called a rub route, and it shows you where a buck travels during the rut on a semi-regular basis. A rub route can also show where the buck beds, feeds and ends up at night in search of does. The rub route leads from the bedroom (where the buck often rubs on trees less than two inches in diameter) through several doe use areas, and then to a night food source. If the buck travels through wooded areas at night, it may rub more trees on the way back to the core the next morning. But, if the buck travels mainly through open areas at night (which is often the case) it won't leave many rubs behind.

The side of the tree the rub is on usually tells you the direction from which the buck came. When uyou are facing the rub, you are facing the same direction the buck was when it made the rub. Several rubs on the same side of trees, and tracks pointing in the same direction, tell you which way the buck was traveling . A buck may have several rub routes leading to different food sources and doe areas.

Some people believe only big bucks rub on big trees. The problem is that many hunters think this means a buck with large antlers. I do believe that rubs on big trees are made by bucks with big racks. However, I have watched large antlered bucks rubs trees from one inch to six inches in diameter. I have also watched a small antlered buck rub a 9 inch tree. Most 3.5 year old bucks, with an 8 point rack, scoring in the 100 point range, are able to rub five to six inch diameter trees.

Scrapes

Bucks also make scrapes during the rut. A scrape is a combination sight and scent signal left for does; to help identify the social status, health, and the individual buck making the scrape. A scrape is probably also a signal to other bucks that there is a dominant buck nearby. A scrape is made when a buck rubs a low hanging branch with it's antlers and forehead, and then licks and chews the branch.. The buck then paws the ground several times with both hooves and squats and urinates over its tarsal gland and into the scrape. A friend of mine who is a wildlife photographer says that bucks in velvet will rub and lick an overhanging branch, but do not usually paw the scrape until after they shed the velvet from their antlers.

Some deer experts claim there are three different types of scrapes. Some scrapes are called boundary scrapes because they appear along the boundaries of a buck's home range, or between two different types of habitat. They are often located along trails, creeks, fences, old roads and field edges. Because these scrapes are often found in open areas they are often made at night.

Secondary scrapes are generally found in wooded areas, along trails, and in natural funnels between core and feeding areas. They are called secondary scrapes because they are not frequently used during the weeks just before breeding occurs. Most scrapes start out as secondary scrapes. A scrape becomes a primary scrape when it is frequently used during the two to three weeks before peak breeding. Primary scrapes are often used by numerous bucks, and are usually found on wooded trails near food sources and doe bedding areas. They are often used year after year because they are in cover where the deer feel secure during the day.

----

T.R. Michels is a nationally recognized big game researcher, speaker and writer. He is the author of the Whitetail, Elk, Turkey and Goose Addict's Manuals; and the Deer Addict's Manuals. T.R.'s latest books, available for 2001, are the Deer Addict's Manual, Volume 7: Hunting Tactics; the Scrape Hunters Manual; and the Outdoorsman's Cookbook, Volume 2. For a catalog of books and other hunting aids contact: T.R. Michels, Trinity Mountain Outdoors, 41267 Hwy. 56 Boulevard, Nerstrand, MN 55053. Phone: 507-789-8808 E-mail: trmichels@yahoo.com Website: www.trmichels.com

Tips: Deer Calling

by T.R. Michels

Determining what deer call to use is not a matter of which rut phase you are hunting, but which sex and age class of deer you want to attract. Does respond to distress calls and Maternal/Neonatal calls primarily out of maternal instinct. All bucks respond to any call, which may lead them to an estrus doe; particularly a Social Grunt or a Low Grunt. Dominant bucks also respond to Mating calls and aggressive grunts out of the desire to exert dominance. Subdominant bucks may respond to these Mating calls during the breeding phase, but they may not respond because they are afraid of encountering a dominant. If you are hunting for any legal buck it may best not to use mating calls or aggressive grunts.

There are four basic techniques for calling deer that can be used anytime during the rut. The fourth technique is not as effective during the Rest Phase and Post Rut because the bucks are exhausted, not as aggressive, and not as interested in breeding.

1. For does and young bucks; Distress Call or Fawn Bawl.

2. For any deer; Social or Low Grunt.

3. For all bucks; Social/Low/Tending Grunt.

4. For dominant bucks; Social/Low/Tending Grunt or Grunt Snort.

Tips: Deer Rattling

by T.R. Michels

1. Rattling for deer is most effective in areas with high buck to doe ratios. It is also effective in areas with high numbers of older/dominant bucks; in limited habitat such as urban areas; in the marginal habitat of prairie river bottoms; and on property managed for trophy quality.

2. Bucks respond to rattling out of curiosity and dominance; they want to find out which bucks are fighting, and if there is an estrus doe with them. Rattle near areas bucks regularly use; buck feeding/sparring areas, buck bedrooms, doe feeding and staging areas, and dominance areas of rubs and scrapes.

3. Rattling works any time during the rut, but works best during the peak of the rut, when bucks are most aggressive.

4. Rattling works best in the morning when bucks are still searching for does or heading for core areas, and is less effective during midday when bucks are bedded. Older dominant bucks may respond best in the evening.

5. Rattling, like calling and using scents, works best when Security Factors are high. Deer prefer to move during low light conditions, when there are low wind speeds, and when few hunters are afield.

6. Bucks that respond to rattling are intent on discovering the source, which leaves you vulnerable to discovery. Take precautions to conceal or disguise unnatural sights, scents, sounds and you from the deer.

7. Rattling is most effective where you have a chance of seeing the buck before it discovers you. Use treestands in dense or brushy habitat. Natural cover or blinds can be used to conceal you and your movements in open country.

8. Wary bucks responding to rattling or calls generally approach from downwind. Use buck in rut, tarsal, forehead, doe urine or estrus scents to add realism and bring bucks into range after being attracted by rattling and calls.

9. Hang a second set of antlers from your tree stand. When bucks get close these antlers can be jerked and rattled, keeping movement to a minimum and away from you.

10. Thrashing brush and rubbing trees near buck high use areas also attracts bucks, especially mule deer that express dominance by thrashing.

11. Rustling leaves and pounding the ground with a stick or rattling racks, and grunting and blowing add realism to the sound of rattling and thrashing.

12. Larger antlers and some imitation racks work best because their sound carries farther. Be sure to use racks with a neutral color so they aren't easily detected by the deer.

13. If bucks are not nearby the initial contact of the antlers should be loud to get their attention. When bucks are nearby rattle softer.

14. When you rattle loudly bring the racks together with a crash, then roll your wrists and grind the racks together, simulating two bucks pushing and shoving each other for 1-3 minutes. Then stop and listen for a buck's approach for 3-5 minutes before beginning again.

15. If a buck shows up, but won't come into range, rattle softly while it can't see you, or use a grunt call to coax it into range.

16. If the buck starts to leave before you get a shot, or won't hold still, use a grunt call to stop it.

17. If you don't get a response when you rattle, wait a half hour and try again, then move a 1/4-1/2 mile away and try again.

18. Before leaving the stand site check the area thoroughly, especially if you have been watching a deer. More than one buck may have responded and be nearby.

19. A buck or doe decoy added to rattling, calls and scents provides the final visual stimulus to bring in reluctant bucks and distract their attention from your position.

20. Patience is an asset in rattling. Bucks may respond from as far as 1/2 mile in calm weather in open country, and may take up to a half hour to come in. Rattle every 10-15 minutes to keep the /buck interested.

21. During the pre-rut use long, loud rattling sequences to attract wide ranging bucks.

22. During peak rut, when the bucks are most active, use short, loud rattling sequences. Long rattling sequences make you prone to discovery.

23. During post-rut use quiet, long rattling sequences. Bucks are not as aggressive after the rut and don't travel as much, give them time to respond.

24. Don't try to rattle the same buck from the same site on successive days. If the buck comes in and you don't get a shot wait a couple of days before rattling from that site gain.

25. Try not to rattle to the same buck more than three times if it doesn't see a decoy or a deer when it comes in. If bucks don't see a deer when they respond to rattling they learn that something is wrong.

Tips: Whitetail Scents

by T.R. Michels

Determining which scents to use to attract deer depends on which sex of deer you want to attract, and the rut phase you are hunting in.

Pre-Rut/Rubbing Phase

During the Pre-Rut whitetail bucks often engage in sparring matches to establish dominance. They also feed heavily to put on enough fat to get them through the rut. They search out succulent fall greens (clover, new cut hay, alfalfa, grasses that remain green), ripening berries, mast crops (acorns, beechnuts) and ripening agricultural crops (corn, beans, vegetables). If food sources are sparse bucks may respond to food scents, especially if acorn production is poor.

Bucks respond to tarsal and interdigital scents, buck and doe urine, buck in rut and doe in heat scents, and food/curiosity scents at this time. Because they have not begun using their rub routes the "broadcast method" of scent dispersal is most productive. Once you have chosen a high use area to hunt, and a place to put your stand, decide where to place the scent. It can be hung from trees on felt pads, film canisters, drippers or other dispensers. When I archery hunt I place the scent crosswind or upwind of my position, about fifteen yards from my stand and fifteen yards apart, and wait for the buck to come by. I hang up one or two felt pads with doe or doe in estrous scent, but I don't leave scent out when I'm not there. If a buck comes to doe scent and doesn't find a doe he probably won't fall for it again. By taking the scent out every day you don't educate the buck. For gun hunting during the rut five to ten dispensers can be placed in a straight line or arc, upwind or crosswind from the stand site to attract wide ranging deer. The dispensers should be placed 20-30 yards apart to spread the scent over a wide area.

Pre-Primary Breeding/Scraping Phase

During the Scraping Phase bucks regularly travel their rub routes and visit "dominance areas" of rubs and scrapes; and doe use, feeding and staging areas. When I am hunting a previously patterned buck, during the scraping phase, near a rub or scrape, I am fairly confident of the trail the animal uses and I don't need numerous dispensers. Because I have patterned the buck, and I am hunting before the breeding period, I am fairly sure the buck will come by me sometime within a week, unless he meets an estrous doe first, or is spooked by another hunter. I am basically using the scent to position the buck for a clear shot. By using scent I also have a chance to bring in any lesser bucks in the area. If I am hunting an area I have not hunted before I prefer to hunt evenings, because most scenting activity occurs at that time. If I find a rub route I back track it until I think I am near the core area and setup as close as I can without alarming the buck, otherwise I look for staging areas near food sources the does use in the evening.

Because bucks may still be feeding at this time, but they are beginning to proclaim dominance and look for estrous does, food, tarsal and interdigital scents, buck and doe urine, buck in rut and doe in heat scents may all work. You can use the broadcast method of scent dispersal in wooded areas and travel lanes; make a mock scrape or mock rub route; or hunt near existing rub routes and scrape lines, especially those in wooded areas leading to food sources.

To get bucks in close at this time make a mock rub near one of the buck's rubs or scrapes, and a mock scrape. Drip a line of interdigital or tarsal scent across the trail the buck uses and lead it to the mock rub. Remove the bark from the tree with a wood rasp, then drip forehead scent on the rub. Wear rubber gloves and boots while doing this so you don't contaminate the area. The mock rub should be placed in a shooting lane near your stand, where the buck will stop to investigate, often sniffing and licking the mock rub.

I make a mock scrape with the heel of my boot, rattling racks or a stick, under an overhanging branch. I pour forehead scent on the branch and plenty of tarsal in the scrape. Then I hang an Ultimate Scrape Dripper with doe in heat or buck urine over the scrape, or near my stand in a shooting lane. This combination of buck infringement scents and doe in heat scents attracts the buck, either out of the urge to exert dominance or to breed.

Primary Breeding Phase and Post Primary Breeding Phase

During the Primary Breeding Phase setup along the buck's rub route, in areas does regularly use; or in travel corridors between doe core areas. Because the does are in estrous the buck may be either with a doe, or looking for one. If you know the buck is not with a doe, and is staying in his traditional core area, setup as close to the core area as you can. Try to get between the buck and the first doe area he visits. If he finds an estrus doe before he gets to your stand site the chances are he will follow the doe and not his rub route. By setting up between the buck's core area the first doe use area it travels to, you have a good chance of seeing the buck on a regular basis and attracting it to your stand.

Because the buck is looking for does and wanting to protect his breeding rights buck and doe urine, buck in rut and doe in heat scents work. If you have previously patterned a buck and know where it's core area is you can setup near it to intercept him as he goes into it in the morning, or as he leaves in the evening. You can employ the same methods used during the scraping phase. If you don't know where the buck's core area is, and know that the buck may be on the prowl during the day, you can setup near dominance areas of scrapes and rub lines near doe feeding and core areas in the evening, where the buck will be looking for estrus does. I use several film canisters spread out to attract the buck over a wide area. If you know the buck is traveling late in the morning you can use these same techniques on the rub route back to his core area.

Remember that the buck may be traveling anywhere and anytime in search of does during the breeding period or "peak rut." Because the buck is unpredictable at this time you should spend as much time as possible on stand. Hunt three or more days in each area, changing stand sites frequently. If the buck is with an estrous doe it will travel with her for up to three days, and may not return to normal activities until she is out of estrus. If you quit hunting the area after two or three days you may miss the buck when he returns to his normal pattern.

Rest Phase

Hunting a buck after the breeding phase can be extremely frustrating unless you know where the buck's core area is. After all the fighting, chasing and breeding of the rut the buck is worn out, hungry and in need of food to supply enough fat to get him through the winter. He is going to look for a secure place to rest with high quality food sources nearby. Between the first and the second breeding phase bucks are not often seen because they rest up. If you know where their core area is, and where available food sources are, you can setup between the two to intercept a buck. By this time the bucks are not as willing to fight, but they are still interested in breeding: estrus scents may work the best. Some bucks may respond to curiosity scents and food scents (acorn, corn and peanut butter).

Pre-Late Breeding Phase and Late Breeding Phase

Three to four weeks after the Primary Breeding Phase there is usually a late breeding period. Some does experience a late first estrus at this time because they are young, old, or unhealthy. In Dr. Larry Marchinton's study in Georgia the oldest doe came into a first estrus in December. A wildlife photographer friend of mine notes that in Wisconsin his yearling does often come into a first estrus in December. I found the same to be true in southern Minnesota. Some does may experience a second estrus at this time because they were not bred during the first breeding period, or did not conceive for some reason. In unbalanced populations where there are few bucks some does may even experience a third or fourth estrus. Does not bred during the first two breeding periods often remain unbred. It's difficult to pinpoint the timing of the late breeding period, because the does don't recycle every 28 days. Marchinton's studies show that estrus cycles range from 21to 30 days. This means does could come into estrus anytime in December. In Marchinton's study there was a first estrus doe on December 1, with second estrus does from December 6 to the 28.

In many areas the bucks will start to travel their routes again two to three weeks after the end of the primary breeding period, traveling through doe use areas and doe feeding sites in search of estrous does. Since most of the does have been bred the bucks do a lot of wandering and searching. Because of the colder temperatures in some areas, the movement of the deer is dependent on the weather. They will travel during good weather, but stay in or near core areas during cold, damp, windy or very wet weather. Expect deer to move and feed for a couple of hours when warming occurs after a cold spell. Hunt buck core sites, nearby buck food sources, rub routes and doe core areas and feeding sites. Bucks respond well to buck in rut and doe in heat, curiosity and food scents at this time.

Post Rut

After the rut the buck's again return to their core areas and seek out nutrient rich food sources to put on weight for the winter. Because the rut is over the bucks are not aggressive and often travel together to feeding areas. Though most of the does have been bred bucks will still respond to doe estrous scents. Curiosity and food scents can attract bucks near core areas, buck feeding sites, and travel lanes between the two.

Blocking Scents

Blocking scents can be used effectively during any phase of the rut. Blocking works well in large patches of brush or woods that deer move freely through. In dense cover there may be numerous trails with very few animals using each trail regularly. By blocking some of the trails you create a bottleneck, which funnels the deer past your stand. If you are hunting a food source with numerous trails leading to it, block some of the trail several yards from the food source to force the deer to use the one trail where your stand is placed. Good blocking scents include the smell of a dog and a smelly sock.

Tips: Deer Decoying

by T.R. Michels

Where and how you place your deer decoy may determine how successful you are, and which sex and size deer respond to the decoy.

1. For safety use a decoy with blaze orange, hang fluorescent tape nearby, or hunt from an elevated stand.

2. Don't get human or unnatural scent on the decoy. Use gloves when carrying and positioning the decoy, then spray it with deer scent or cover-up.

3. Place the decoy in a high use area; near trails, rubs, scrapes, bedding, staging or feeding areas with nearby cover.

4. Don't place bedded decoys directly on trails. Deer don't usually bed on trails.

5. Place decoys upwind of where you expect the deer to appear. Bucks like to approach downwind from cover if they can.

6. Place decoys within your personal shooting distance in a clear shooting lane.

7. Place a doe decoy with its rump toward you. Bucks often approach does from the rear or side, presenting you with a shot.

8. Place a buck decoy with its head toward.you for a shot. Bucks generally approach another buck cautiously from the front.

9. Don't place the decoy in a direct line between you and where you expect the deer to come from, the deer may see you. Place the decoy off to one side of your stand to distract the deer's attention from your position.

10. To get the buck's attention on the decoy, tape a small piece of white plastic to the tail area, so that it can blow in the wind, or use one of the new tail motion decoys.

11. To keep the buck's attention focused on the decoy place a few drops of deer urine on it, doe in estrous for doe decoys, buck in rut for buck decoys.

12. Use buck or doe scents, and calling or rattling to create the illusion of another deer in the area, and to initially attract bucks to the decoy.

My First WMA - Sapelo Island

by Scott Turner

There are WMAs, and there is Sapelo Island. Not only was it my first WMA, but my first deer hunt, ever. I would have to say that hunting Sapelo on my first hunt is the equivalent of hitting a grand slam your first time at bat in t-ball. It's all down hill from there....

This WMA is south of Savannah about a 30 minute boat ride into the Atlantic Ocean. Hunting Sapelo will be one of the most unique experiences a hunter can have if you're fortunate enough to be chosen. Now it's important to note that you won't kill a 12 point 225 lb. buck on this hunt, as a matter of fact, there's a good chance no one will even kill a deer over 110 lbs. The reason for this is because you're hunting Key deer which I believe are more prevalent in parts of Florida and rarely seen on the Georgia mainland at all. However, don't be surprised if you see somebody bring in a 250 lb hog. Yeah, the hogs are bigger than the deer, but that's beside the point, let's talk about the experience.

The experience begins when you load all your gear on to a ferry that takes you to the island. It will probably be the only time your mode of transportation is followed by dolphins on your way to a hunt. So let the experience begin. When you reach the island, everyone transfers their gear to a pickup truck pulled trailer. It might resemble a hayride, but hold on tight the road isn't paved. As you ride through the island you can't help but imagine what the island must have looked like 100 years because not much has changed. Once you arrive at camp (no electricity, dirty bathrooms, and showers that had about a foot of standing water) you pitch your tent and quickly realize what's missing from your arsenal. At Sapelo it's the hunter vs. the wild just like it was meant to be.

DNR sets up the hunt so that you arrive the day before the 3 day hunt begins. Once you arrive you will pick out your own "section". This section is a piece of land that you, and only you, will be hunting for the next 3 days. After picking out the section the hunters hop back on to the trailer and are dropped off at their spot and allowed to scout for a few hours.

I would have to estimate that I was given a block of land at least 40 acres in size. About 60% of my piece of land was a field with the ocean as the border, or at least a bay full of salt water and marsh (watch out for alligators) and the other 40% consisted of tall mature pines. The next day we were dropped off about an hour before sunrise at our "section" and the hunt began. There's something very peaceful to seeing the sun come up over the 100 year old spanish draped oaks as the fog slowly burns away. Over the next 3 days I saw many deer, didn't bring any home though due to a bad case of buck fever and operator error, but it was well worth the trip.

One animal I forgot to mention that you may run into are longhorn cattle, as a matter of fact, during the 3rd and final day after getting out of my stand I caught a glimpse of brown in the nearby field. This was my chance at redemption, it was the last day of the hunt, I could finally get my first ..........cow? Yeah, it was a large heard of longhorns. Now we're talking about a 48 inch spread, but only 2 points so I let them go. These guys were descendents of a herd left behind by a previous owner of the island, R.J. Reynolds. I guess longhorns don't pack easily when moving.

Well, as you can see, hunting the Sapelo WMA is an experience that will provide memories for a lifetime. With or without a kill, it doesn't matter. My experience was about 10 years ago, but I remember it like it was last season. If you are looking for a hunt that becomes more about the experience than whether or not you have to bring home a Boone and Crockett then I would seriously consider Sapelo. It's well worth the effort. Discuss this story...

The above article is the copyrighted material of GeorgiaHuntingOnline.com and the respective authors. Copying, republishing or other use of this information without the written permission of GeorgiaHuntingOnline.com or the respective author is prohibited.

Understanding the Turkey Rut: Using the Right Tactics at the Right Time

by T.R. Michels

Okay, okay, I realize that the term "rut" does not apply to turkey breeding behavior, but I thought it was a good way of getting your attention. Over the years as a guide and writer I've learned that one of the best ways to hunt any animal is to use the right tactics at the right time. In order to do that we have to understand how the animal is acting at the time that we hunt it.

What Causes Peak Breeding?

Peak breeding in many game animals is triggered by the amount of sunlight (photoperiod), which affects seasonal temperatures, which in turn affects the seasonal growth of plants, which affects how much food is available, which affects the survivability of the young of the animals. To make it simple; if it is too cold, too wet, or too dry, there may not be enough food for the young animals to eat (or their mothers to provide food, such as milk), so that the young can survive. With turkeys (which breed in the spring and have a short time between breeding and live young on the ground) this means that the young need to hatch when there is new (spring) green growth and lots of insects to eat.

Breeding Phases

When we are talking about hunting during the breeding season, we first need to realize that most animals go through several different phase during their breeding season. These different phases can probably best be described as the: 1. Pre-breeding, 2. Primary breeding, 3. Post primary breeding, 4. Supplemental/late breeding and 5. Post breeding phases. When hunters (who rely on particular breeding behaviors to hunt animals) are after animals which use calls as a major part of their breeding behavior (as in elk and turkeys) we also need to realize that the calls used by the males of the species to attract females often have semi-regular peaks during the breeding phase; and that these calling peaks usually coincide with one or more of the above mentioned breeding phases.

Peak Gobbling

Tom turkeys use gobbling as a means of attracting hens during the breeding season. And since the toms are often ready to look for and attract hens before (or when) the hens are not ready (or willing) to breed, there may be one or more gobbling peaks during the turkey breeding season. Since toms gobble to attract hens, but often reduce gobbling when hens are ready/willing to breed, these gobbling peaks generally occur prior to and after peak breeding. In other words peak turkey gobbling usually occurs just prior to and just after peak breeding, and since there is often a second breeding phase, there is often a peak in gobbling activity after the supplemental or "late" breeding phase.

Why Use Calls to Hunt Turkeys?

Since it is often easy to locate tom turkeys when they are actively gobbling, and since toms are often fairly willing to respond to both tom and hens calls during the same time frame as they are actively gobbling, hunters often choose to hunt during these gobbling peaks, and they often use calls to figure out where the toms are at, and use calls to get the toms to come in close for a shot. We can use locator calls (like owl hoots, and woodpecker, peacock and coyote calls), and hen calls and gobbles to locate toms; and we can use hen calls to bring the toms in close enough to hunt.

Can We Predict Peak Breeding and Gobbling?

Somewhere in my job description as a game researcher, and as an outdoor writer and speaker, it states that I should do some research on when peak breeding of the game occurs, and try to figure out ways to predict when peak breeding and calling occurs. I've spent four years researching turkeys to figure out the different phases of the breeding season.

When is Peak Gobbling in Each State?

And, realizing that turkeys in different areas breed at different times, because spring arrives at different times in different areas, I contacted the turkey researcher or biologist from as many states as I could, and asked them when peak gobbling usually occurred in their states. This may help you choose the best times to hunt, or know how to expect the turkeys to act during the dates you hunt, which in turn can help you choose the best tactics to use during your hunt.

	Pre-Breeding Gobbling	Peak Post -Breeding Gobbling Peak
Georgia	Mar 23-Apr 1	Apr 22-May 5

The above article is the copyrighted material of T.R. Michels / Trinity Mountain Outdoors, and/or the respective authors. Copying, republishing or other use of this information without the written permission of the publisher or respective authors is prohibited. Georgia Hunting Online thanks T.R. Michels / Trinity Mountain Outdoors for use of this article. Additional material by T.R. Michels can be read at www.trmichels.com.

Pre-Season Turkey Scouting

By T.R. Michels

Two of the main factors contributing to poor hunter success are not being familiar with the property, and not observing the game to understand it, and help locate and pattern it. The more time and effort you spend on the property, getting to know the land and observing the animals, the more you will learn, and the better hunter you will be. There are no shortcuts to knowledge; the best teacher is experience.

Choosing A Hunting Area

To be successful as a hunter you need to find areas that offer a sufficient number of animals to hunt; areas with high success rates; or areas where trophies are known to occur, or have come from, in the past. If you are interested in a particular species or subspecies you need to find the areas where it occurs. Once you have determined the general area you wish to hunt, a state for instance, the next step is to determine the county or unit to hunt, then the property, and finally you will want to locate the best places to hunt for the animal on the property.

The first part of locating game, determining the right area to hunt, is what I call research. The second part, the actual location, consists of understanding the animal, and personal experience in knowing the areas to look for the animals or signs of them. I refer to this as scouting. All of these "keys;" research, understanding, personal experience and scouting are necessary to successfully locate the animal and their "high use areas. Without all four "keys" locating is difficult, if not frustrating.

Scouting

The act of locating game animals consists of two primary techniques, scouting and observing. The more time and effort you spend scouting and observing the animals, and recording what you have seen, the less time you will have to be spend patterning and hunting. Once you know where the animals are through scouting; and knowing the sex, size, and time to expect them in certain areas (based on observing and recording in a journal and marking on a map), it's a matter of determining the right spot at the right time to hunt. While you are scouting, looking for sign, you should also learn the land. You want to know where the food sources are, and what time of the year they are used. You should also look for the roosting areas, watering sites, breeding areas and travel routes.

When you are scouting for turkeys you want to know where the ravines, gullies, streams and fences are; obstacles that a turkey will detour around or maybe not cross. If you know where the openings and fields are you will be able to choose the best places to set up, and you will be able to estimate how long it will take a bird to come to your call. You also want to know the topography, the elevation of hills and valleys, so you know if the birds are above or below you. When you are calling try to be above the bird. Turkeys prefer to come uphill to a call rather than down.

You should know the land as thoroughly as the animals do, so you know where to find them under the current conditions and time of year. If you know the land, you will know where the birds when you hear but can't see them. If you see them you will know the route either you or the birds will travel, and approximately how long it will take. But, you won't know the number of birds, their size and sex, interesting characteristics, or when they use specific areas, unless you observe them.

Observing

One of the best ways to understand an animal is to observe it under natural conditions. The only way to know the numbers, size, sex, characteristics, and the time to expect the animals in particular locations is by spending some time and effort observing them. Scouting is learning the land and finding areas used frequently by the animals. Observing is watching, undetected, to learn more about the animals and have a better understanding of them. Observing is not accidentally running into or spooking animals.

An observation site should be a high point with a good view of much of the land, far enough away that you will not disturb the animals during their normal routine. A tree stand at the edge of field, or a hill, is a good site. By choosing the right spot to watch from you are able to see how the animals react to weather, light, hunting pressure, and other predators. You may also have a chance to hear the animals calling and see the body posture and movement associated with the call.

Recording

While you are scouting and observing you should also put your findings in a journal. Mark the places where you see the animals on a map, and mark the trails, resting, feeding, breeding and watering areas The more information you keep in a journal, and the more information you have on your map, the easier it will be to understand the animals and pattern them. Keep notes on date, day, time, sky conditions (amount of light), wind direction and speed, temperature, dewpoint, wind-chill, precipitation breeding phase, food availability, number of animals, sex, direction of travel, activity, size and any other factors that might help you better understand the animals.

Patterning Turkeys

While observing the animals you may be able to determine regular travel routes and times they use, which will help you pattern the animals and make it easier to choose the right time and place to hunt them. Patterning cannot be done in a few hours, it may take days or even weeks. The more time and effort you spend observing the animals, the clearer the pattern will become, and the more you will learn and understand the animals.

High Use Areas

To locate turkeys you need a good topographical map of the area, or a good aerial photo. These visual aids will help determine where the "high use areas" of security cover, roosting sites, water, food, strutting, and travel areas are before you are even on the property. Then it's time to get on the property and scout for sign left by turkeys. Two prime areas you want to locate are the food sources, which often serve as strutting areas, and the roosting sites. These are the areas where turkeys spend a majority of their time and leave the most sign. They are also the areas where turkeys are the most predictable, where you have the best chance of ambushing or getting them to come to you. Find these areas and you will find the birds.

Reading Turkey Sign

While you are scouting look for tracks, particularly tracks in the 2 1/4 inch and larger range, with a deep or clear imprint of the middle toe with the scales showing. This indicates a large heavy bird, usually a tom. Tracks can be found along trails, in feeding and strutting areas (where wing drag marks may also occur), near roosting sites, and near wet areas.

Droppings are frequent in high use areas of trails, feeding, watering, strutting and roosting sites, and can tell you if a tom is in the area. Large straight or "J" shaped droppings are those of a tom. Bulbous or spiral droppings are those of a hen. Piles of droppings under large trees are a good indication of a roosting site.

Feathers are often found along trails, under roosts, in feeding areas and in or near dusting bowls (small depressions in the dirt) where the birds cover themselves with dust to help eliminate pests. Breast feathers with square black tips are those of toms, while rounded brown tipped feathers are those of a hen. Light tipped tail and rump feathers are those of a jake or tom.

Scratching is another sign of turkey use. Scratches appear as claw marks in the dirt, or large torn up areas in grass or leaves. When a turkey scratches it uses each foot several times, leaving a "V" pattern, with the point of the "V" showing the way the bird was facing. Turkeys scratch when they are searching for left over seeds and acorns, or new succulent green growth and insects. A sure sign of a turkey feeding area is torn up leaf litter with exposed forbes bitten off.

Once you have found the high use areas it's a matter of more time and effort observing the birds to determine if there are toms or jakes, how many birds there are, the size of the birds, length or number of beards, and other interesting features. Observing on a regular basis will help you determine when the birds fly down, which direction they go, the route they take, where they feed, and where they go to strut, water and roost. You need to record all this information in your journal and mark it on a map (which will help you pattern the birds), so you know where and when to hunt. Discuss this story...

Spring Turkey Hunting

By T.R. Michels

After you have spent time and effort understanding, locating, observing, recording and patterning the turkeys you can put everything you have learned into practice. You have chosen the state you want to hunt, the unit and the property. You have spent hours scouting and watching the birds and know where the roost is, the travel route the birds normally use, the time they usually come off the roost, and the time they arrive at their favorite feeding spot, and where the toms gobble and strut to attract a receptive hen. Now you are ready to hunt.

Roosting A Bird

To be sure which roost the tom is using I go out the night before the hunt to "put a bird to bed." I stop near the area where I expect the tom to be roosted and crow or owl call, trying to get the bird to "shock gobble." Tom turkeys often shock gobble in response to a loud noise; a dog barking, door slamming, coyote, crow, owl or Pileated Woodpecker calling, even thunder. I prefer a crow or Pileated Woodpecker call during daylight, and a Barred Owl call during dusk and dark, when these animals are most often heard. If I don't get an answer I move to the next likely roosting site, one where I have observed birds before. I continue moving until I get a response, then I get close enough to tell exactly which ravine and which group of trees the bird is in, so I can set up near the bird the next morning.

I know several hunters who did not determine the exact roost site, and then set up too near or right under the roost tree the next morning. When this happens the bird may flush out early; watch as you approach under cover of darkness and remain on the roost; or fly away from you instead of coming to your calls and decoys. Once I have put the bird to bed and determined its location I leave the area as quietly as possible, so I don't spook the turkey off the roost. On my way out I take note of the surrounding terrain and mark certain features in my mind, so I can find the roost the next morning.

Choosing A Setup Site

Before returning to hunt the next morning I review my knowledge of the land and look at my topographical maps and aerial photos. I check the weather conditions for that day knowing that clouds, rain, snow or heavy wind may keep the birds on the roost longer than normal. Then I look for the feeding and strutting area closest to where the bird is roosted, and the nearest water. Turkeys often go to the nearest feeding area when they fly down shortly after daylight, or head for water if it is close. With the knowledge gained during my scouting, observing and patterning I know the route the bird is likely to take after it flies down. If I have observed the birds under the current weather conditions I know what they do, and where the best areas to setup or ambush them are. If I am not sure what they will do I make an informed guess, and hope they come my way, or respond to my call.

Before I go to my hunting site I use an owl call to get the tom to shock gobble, to be sure it is still on the roost. I make a point of getting to my hunting site before dawn so I don't spook the birds. If I do spook a bird going in before daylight, and I am there long enough and out of sight, it usually forgets I am there. When I get to my setup site I decide where the bird is likely to appear, where to place my decoys, and where to sit. Then I get in front of a large tree to break up my outline. Many hunters choose a large tree to lean against to protect their back.

Calling

When I hear the first sounds of the turkeys in the spring, just before daylight, I tree yelp softly to get their attention. If there are hens roosted nearby they may respond with their own tree yelps, toms often gobble. If you aren't fully awake yet the sound of an early morning gobble can really get your heart pumping. From here on it's a matter of experience and personal tactics. I try to imitate all the sounds that are normally heard. In the morning the tom expects to hear the sounds a hen or flock makes on the roost; the tree yelp, pit and cluck. When the birds fly down they yelp or do the flying cackle. If the tom is close enough he expects to hear flapping wings. I use all these sounds to convince the tom there is a hen or flock in the area, and to get him to come my way.

My first call is a tree yelp, and if I get a gobble I yelp a little louder. I may or may not get a response, either way I have to make a decision to do something. I usually wait until I hear the turkeys moving, then I use the flying cackle and the Flapp 'n Tom or Wing Thing flapper to simulate the sound of a hen flying down. The combination of these sounds usually gets the attention of the tom and gets him fired up enough to gobble, and often to come in.

If the tom doesn't answer, or is reluctant to come, I make the sounds of birds feeding on the ground. I start out slow and easy with soft yelps, purrs, whines and clucks. I rustle the leaves, simulating birds scratching and feeding. If I get a response I keep doing it, letting the tom set the tempo of the calling. When he gobbles, I wait awhile then gobble back. As long as he keeps answering and seems to be coming my way I keep it up. My motto is, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

More times than not the bird will "hang up" and not come in. Maybe he is with a hen, maybe he is detouring around some obstacle, maybe he is spooky or alerted; maybe he just doesn't want to come. This is when I try something different or get aggressive, when experience helps and the game begins. There is no set routine to get a reluctant tom to come. This is the time to experiment, fail and learn. When a tom hangs up I first use a loud assembly yelp or lost yelp, trying to imitate a hen looking for other hens. These calls work well on most toms and jakes, because it means there are hens nearby. If that doesn't work I use a series of loud hen clucks, imitating a bird trying to get another bird to show itself. If that doesn't work I use the fast cluck or cutting, the sound of a bird telling the other bird that if they are going to get together the other bird will have to do the walking. This call is very effective on reluctant dominant toms; it does not work well on subdominant toms and jakes because it may scare them. When I use the fast cutt I make sure the call is loud and insistent, telling the other bird "come on over here." If the tom still won't come in I use the deep cluck or yelp of a jake along with the hens cluck, to get the tom to think there is a young male with "his" hen. Often the tom will come in to establish dominance, ready to fight the jake for the hen.

If these calls fail, I resort to the fighting purr of two birds. This call appeals to a turkey's curiosity, it wants to know which birds are fighting and why. Just like teenage boys after school in the parking lot, they just have to go and watch. Turkeys watch to see if a dominant bird is defeated, leaving room for them to move up in the hierarchy and gain dominance. The fighting purr works especially well on dominant toms because they want to know which birds in "their" area are fighting, and why; the fight may be over a receptive hen and the tom wants to have the chance to breed her. Discuss this story...

Daily Turkey Activity
By T.R. Michels

Turkeys normally roost in trees at night, wake up about an hour before daylight, begin calling about a half-hour before daylight, and fly down from their roost from a half-hour to ten minutes before daylight. Once they are on the ground they usually look for food. If they land in wooded areas they may look for nearby food; they generally move to an open feeding area within a half hour. Whether they are in wooded, shrub or open areas they search for seeds, nuts, grasses, forbes and small insects on the ground.

I've seen a wintering flock of turkeys spend four hours in a cornfield in early spring, prior to the breeding season. However, the normal amount of time spent by large flocks or groups feeding in open areas is about an hour to an hour and a half. Then they move to a new opening or into the woods. During mid-day the turkeys may loaf in wooded areas and fly up to roost. They generally begin to feed again in the late afternoon, and fly back up to roost at about sundown.

Habits

Turkey habits vary greatly by region and even local areas. Some Eastern and Merriam's turkeys become accustomed to human activity and inhabit cities and towns, while a few miles away the mere sight of a car will send birds into cover. In some western areas turkeys may frequent farmyards, use farm groves and buildings for roost sites, exhibit no fear of humans, dogs or livestock, and become pets.

Reaction to Danger

Wild turkeys are extremely wary, with excellent eyesight, but they don't hear much better than the average human. However, they are very aware of suspicious noises and their first reaction to possible danger is alarm, and when they are alarmed they usually run away or take flight. Turkeys have better eyesight than humans, but, because of their widely spaced eyes they have poor binocular vision and depth perception. They see very little in front of them with both eyes at the same time, which makes it difficult for them to determine relative size and distance of objects. Any unexpected movement makes them alert.

While the first response of a turkey to danger is an alarm call and then flight, it will not usually leave its home range. Because of the small size of their brain turkeys don't have the ability to learn as well as animals with larger brains. With limited ability to learn, and because they inhabit a traditional home range, fleeing turkeys usually do not leave their range but flee back into it; or if they do leave they return soon after. Because they have not been outside their home range, the risk of danger is greater outside the home range than in it. Turkeys seldom vacate their home range because of hunting pressure; they may be hunted out of an area, but not driven out. They do not even avoid places that have been dangerous to them in the past. I have shot turkeys in the same area where they were shot at and missed the day before. Discuss this story...